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針織物染色的途徑

2020-12-17 1559

   用織針將紗線構成線圈,再把線圈相互串套而成的織物。針織物質地松軟,除了有良好的抗皺性和透氣性外,還具有較大的延伸性和彈性,適宜于做內衣、緊身衣和運動服等。針織物在改變結構和提高尺寸穩定性后,同樣可做外衣。


  由纖維素纖維及其與彈性纖維混紡制成的針織物,如雙羅紋針織物、單面平針織物、添紗起絨織物和羅紋針織物的染色目前通常采用活性染料間歇浸染和半連續冷軋堆工藝(CPB)。目前,一種新的針織品連續染色方法正推向市場,它具有明顯的經濟與生態環保意義。


  純棉機織物可選擇不連續或連續方法進行染色,與之比較,由纖維素纖維及其與彈性纖維混紡制得的針織物的染色,在大多數情況下采用不連續浸染或半連續冷軋堆(CPB)工藝。

針織牛仔布廠

  針織物用噴射染色機染色既有優點又有缺點。眾所周知的優點有:染色整個過程在一臺機器內完成;產品形式靈活(不同批量尺寸大小均可);織物處理過程緩和;色光易調節。而噴射染色的缺點是:染色時間相對較長;耗水量巨大;鹽用量很高;不適合大批量(批對批);由于紗線質量的關系,織物起絨或起毛;針織毛圈本身易變形(縱向扭曲變形);實驗室確定染色配方非常困難。


  在針織品半連續CPB染色工藝中同樣存在著優缺點。優點:此方法耗能低,設備占用空間??;用此方法染色后織物沒有起毛現象;批量大小靈活。不足之處:此方法依舊不能進行連續生產,固色所需時間較長,在浸軋過程中織物張力不均勻;從實驗室到實際生產的轉變較困難;存在批次色差問題;使用大量硅油是不利的。


  借鑒機織物連續染色的經驗,并將之用于針織物。用活性染料對棉及其與彈性纖維混紡針織物進行連續染色的客觀要求包括:織物張力較??;外觀性能好(無起毛現象);手感較好;耗水量少;化學物料消耗少(如鹽類);處理時間較短;能耗??;實驗室配色迅速;重現性好;成本較低。并需要考慮到以下3點:被染針織物需要恰當處理以適于連續的處理;連續染色設備需要特別地適合于加工工藝和紡織材料;應該選用經充分證明染色工藝(Econtrol)。


  對于含彈性纖維的針織物在染色前需要進行預定形以確??椢镔|量。尤其需注意的是布邊上膠,為此目的,設計了一種新型的布邊上膠裝置,可準確實現染色過程,這個裝置帶有新的布邊干燥單元GlueFlue,這是一種合并紅外線與對流干燥的設備。作為干燥和固色設備研發了新型的HorflueThermwx6500,這個新概念設備,帶有無級變速風扇、新的上羅拉驅動(合并張力控制和速度滑動調節)、間接氣體加熱(另有蒸汽或循環油浴加熱)和大織物容量,完全實現高彈針織物(及雙向彈性機織物)無故障染色需求。

文章源自 針織牛仔布廠 http://www.rounvp.cn/ 

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